voiceover: the woodwhisperer is sponsored by powermatic, the gold standard since 1921 and clear vue cyclones, clear the air and breathe easy. (upbeat music) voiceover:next up, we'reworking with the side rails. these massive rails are 82.5 inches long, 6 inches wide, and 1 inch 3/4 thick. the 1st step is cut the tenons.
the blue tape shows you the material that will be left after the stock is removed. i use a cutting gauge toscribe the tenon shoulders. then at the table saw,i use a crosscut sled and a dado stack to create the tenons. a quick test fit shows me that i've got some material to remove. i make a slight adjustmentwith the shoulder plane and now the rail sits niceand flush with the foot board.
the head board tenon test fit shows that the tenon is just a bit too thick. just a pass or two from the rabbeting block plane does the trick. and at that point, i wasable to do a full test fit. everything looks pretty good. the rails are held inthe head board mortise with carriage bolts. i start by drillingthrough the mortise floor
and into the tenon itself. both bolts have some lateral movement for expansion and contraction. using the starting holes as a guide, i continue to drill into therail tenon to full depth. on the underside of the rail, i use a forstner bit todrill the nut access holes. now because the boltshave a square section under the head, we'll needto square up the holes.
using a square punch and some layout lines this is easy enough. now for the foot board side of the rails, i'm using a simple drill guide to drill the holes into the tenon. of course, we'll need nutaccess holes here as well. for the connection to the foot board, i'm going to drill andthread a set of holes. using a tap, i slowly createthreads in the bubinga.
the key here is to go very slow. now for more on this process of threading holes in wood, check out episode 167, tapping threads in wood. the threaded rod fits perfectly. now we need to bring our1 inch 3/4 thick rails up to 3 inches by gluing a couple of 1 and 1/4 inch strips to the main rail.
with careful attention to grain direction and materials, the railwill appear as one piece. because the add-on piececovers the nut access holes, i'll relieve some material with the oscillating spindle sander and after a little routing, the nut holes and the add-on strip havea really nice soft look. the outside strip is attachedwith glue and dominoes. all right, so i got anice bead of squeeze out
all the way across, addedquite a few more clamps just to make sure, because i love clamps, and it looks pretty good. i think we can let it dry now. after the glue dries,the surface is scraped and sanded smooth. the inside strip is treateda little bit differently and it receives a rabbet. the strip will then be attachedto the inside of the rail
with epoxy and screws for extra strength. the screws will go in at a slight angle so i have to use a shim at the drill press to make sure that i'm drilling correctly. now i add some epoxy to the strip and notice that i'm using blue tape to catch any of the epoxythat might squeeze out. a few clamps later, the rail is in place and ready to dry overnight.
yeah, i said a few clamps. the next day, i remove the tape and then chisel and scrape away the remaining glue residue. the screws are reallyjust an insurance policy so those can be driven nowinto the predrilled holes. to cover the screw heads, icut my own plugs from scrap and drive them in with glue. once the glue is dry,i can trim them flush
with a flush trim saw. now as you can see, with adecent color and grain match and making sure that theplug's grain direction goes in the same grain direction as the piece you're putting it into, you can get a pretty gooddisguisable sort of plug here. again, underside, nottoo worried about it, but if this were somethingexposed on a face, i probably would be alittle bit more selective
about which piece i use for this slot 'cause it's still, to my eye,is at least fairly obvious. but on the underside ofa bed rail like this, really not too worried about it. voiceover:next time,on the wood whisperer. (jazz music)
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