marc:the wood whisperer is sponsored by powermatic. the gold standard since 1921, and by clear vue cyclones. clear the air and breathe easy. (lively music) small tables make greatskill building projects because in a very small footprint you could pack in a lotof different techniques
and things to practice and learn. for instance with these tables we've got tapered and curved legs. those legs join the postwith a sliding dovetail and the post itself isturned at the lathe. we have a lot of turningdetails to include here and of course the topis elliptical in shape so we have to be able to cut an ellipse which is kind of cool.
on this side over here i've even got a tiltingversion of the table that tilts up and down. now it's not necessarily a feature that anybody of us really need these days but should you want to include it it's classic design feature, it's kind of cool, it's fun to make.
all right. that's what we're gonna show you today. how to make a tilt-top table and well, a more traditionalone that doesn't tilt. (lighthearted guitar music) with the rough stock on the bench i use chalk to lay out the parts while trying to avoid major flaws. the post is made from 12 quarter stock
and the rest of the partscome from four quarter stock. the 12 quarter blank isjointed on two phases before being cut to size at the bandsaw. i then cut the blank tolength at the miter saw. the four quarter stock is broken down next leaving everything over sized for now. i use the miter saw to cutthe parts to rough length and the bandsaw to cutthem to rough width. here is all of the rough stock
for two tables ready to go. the post blank is turned into a cylinder at the lathe. i'm using easy wood tools for the first time on this project and if you've never used them they are incredibly user-friendly. i'm starting with the modern post first beginning with the bead detail.
i then move on to the gentle curve. the top of the postreceives a nice thick tenon. the classic post is made the same way but features a lot more detail. the post will receive three dovetail slots for the legs to lock into. the shopmade jig allows the post to rotate while locking it intothree specific positions using this clever triangle
and wedge system that we came up with. after a straight bitmakes the flat shoulder for each dovetail slot, another straight bit is used to hog out the bulk of the stock. finally, a dovetail bit is used to make the final slot. each table requires a different style leg but their construction is very similar.
it starts by making a template. i trace the shape of the leg unto my blank and cut the sliding dovetail side to the appropriate angle. i can then cut the dovetailsat the router table taking a pass on each side. the fit should be snug and with no gaps. the curve is then cut at the bandsaw and finessed with a spokeshave,
a rasp and a chisel. i find it much easier to workon all three legs at once. each leg receives a nice round over on the outside edge. the legs now receive ataper from top to bottom using these two shopmade sleds. a few passes through thedrum sander or planer will get the job done.
the pivot block is a simple square block with a hole in themiddle for the post tenon and two holes on each side for dowels. we now need two cleats that will attach thetabletop to the pivot block. the cleats also receive holes for dowels. the assembly shouldlook something like this when it's done. the cleats receive some decorative curves
to dress them up a bit. if you don't like the tilt-top concept you can always make a simpledecorative support block like the one that i madefor the walnut table. the table tops are constructedof multiple boards. this cherry set turns a little sapwood into a nice feature. the table top is a 17-inchby 15-inch ellipse. we need to make a template.
to draw the ellipse, i start by drawing two center lines on my plywood template stock. i then measure out in each dimension and mark a line to representthe outer most points of the ellipse. the distance from the center to the edge of the longdimension is 8 1/2 inches and i measure from the outer point
of the short dimension 8 1/2 inches and find where that intersectswith the center line, and then i strike a line at that point. i repeat that process on the other side. now i drive two nails into the outermostpoints of the long axis. i then tie a sting nice and taut between the two nails. now i remove those nails
and drive them into the other two lines that we made in the previous step. using a pencil with a string behind it i rotated around and create the ellipse. now why does this work? i have no idea but it actually does. i then cut the template out and we're back to my line with the rasp and a flexible sanding strip.
the top blank is thencut to shape over sized and flush trimmed using the template at the router table. a round over is added to soften the look of the table's edge. all parts are now sanded thoroughly giving the piece its finished look. the legs are glued in first. then the dowels are gluedinto the pivot block.
for the sake of easy finishing we won't glue the pivotblock to the post just yet. now i'm using danish oil for the finish. i simply brush on aliberal amount of finish and let it soak in and then wipe off theexcess with a clean rag. with the top, you can see how the wood really soaks in that first coat. the second and third coats go on
exactly the same way with about 12 hours ofdry time in between. for the fourth coat, i'm gonna make a custom mix of danish oil with about 50% poly added for some additional durability. the finish is applied using a 2000 grit abrasive foam sanding pad or you could just use someautomotive sanding paper.
the abrasive applies the finish and smooths the surface at the same time. just as before, the excessis removed with a clean rag. with our parts finished we can now attach thepivot block to the post. the cleats are then screwedto the underside of the top. so far so good. nothing fell apart. nothing exploded.
all right, let's check that tilt. now if you do decide to build the tilting version, the one thing i didnot show in this series is how to install a latch that's gonna hold it close because if you put somethingreally heavy on the edge it could certainly fall, all right? there is a classic piece of hardware
that's perfect for this. it's very easy to install and i just haven't had a chance to do it but it works very well, all right? this series is actually awood whisperer guild build. this is just the compressed version of it that i wanted to show you here today. if you want to see the full build get the plans for this project
and it's hours of contentand a lot of detail. if you're interested in that type of thing just go to the woodwhispererguild.com and you can get accessto this project today. thanks for watching. (lighthearted music)
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