jeff schuler: hi i am jeff schuler jim thompson: and i’m jim thompson. js: welcome to the furniture workshop. jt: this month we are going to putting togetherthis tiny entertainment center loosely based on a project behind me. js: but this project doesn’t have all thefeatures that we need to make an entertainment center work. so we are going upstairs withjim and he is going to go over some of the considerations you need to think about. jt: let's take a look now.
okay so here we are in my family room, thenew piece i would like to have kind of match, the dã©cor of the room. so overall style,stand color should obviously fit the base of the tv so i have got to just be mindfulof this width and depth to make sure everything fits okay. i am going to have the goal forthe piece is to get all the electronics in the room into the media cabinet. so we gotthe dvd player, the cable box and this old relic from bose for my audio so all will behidden in a case. and finally probably the most important thing it is my tv has beenon milk crate for about a year now, so by building this piece i get all that stuff outof here. so let's go downstairs and i get started with this one.
okay so i want to go over few of the criticaldimensions of this project. the most important is the height. for most media centers if youwant to have your height right around 25 inches and that is a good height for your set tosit on top of the project. the second thing is you want to make it big enough fit allthe electronics that you have. in my case i have a cable box, standard size dvd playerand i also have an audio component thing from bose that’s smaller than most. so all of that will easily fit inside herealong with some dvds. the other thing about this project since it is matching the piecei already have in the room you want to make sure or i want make sure that my thicknessesand my feet height are very closely related
to that so they kind look like they are meantto be together even if i built that about ten years ago. so i am going to match my feet and width,height, the rails and stiles here in the doors are also the same and then little detailslike the routed edge around the doors and around the top or all those things. the overallis dã©cor is the same as well. so some of the different things about this project obviouslywe have got glass doors, i use 1/8th inch thick pieces of glass here that i have hadmade special for this. if you work with glass and you are relatively new like i am withglass i recommend you have the glass guy polish the edge so it is not sharp any more - itwill save your fingers.
and that is pretty much it that is obviousabout this piece. one of the things i want to point out the doors on this one you can'tsee yet, we will go over later, but they are attached together with dowels which is kindof non-traditional way to do that. it is the way i am used to and i will show you how todo that, it is actually very easy. js: for this project we basically you haveto joint up all the blanks that are going to make up the main box of the project andthis one we are only going to use a couple pieces that are going to be glued together.it is going to be relatively simple should go quick. we will do all the gluing of allthe blanks first and then we will move on to assembly later down the road.
jt: yeah and then just to add to that, i thinkwe have got our two clamps here, we will have clamps on the bottom too and clamps on thetop. i will actually do some clamp pads at the edge you have just got a couple on theshow here. those go right on the edge here and that keeps the steel from kind of pinchinginto your wood so, we have done glue-ups a million times, but i think there is alwaysa few lessons to be learned each time you do a different one. js: so next thing we have to do after theglue is dry we have to just remove the clamps and then we are going to scrape off any gluethat is left, there is always some that leaks out. just show you how we do that, if youdon’t have a scraper you should get one
if you need to sharpen, you need somethingcalled a burnisher which basically puts a little tooth on here to make it nice and sharpand get rid of any imperfections for you. jt: you know well i might need one of thoselittle sharpeners for my glue scraper. js: yeah, this one has gotten dull. jt: yeah, yeah, yeah. js: that much a little bit better that willhelp us out it will keep us from using lot of sand paper on this. jt: then the other thing to point out whenyou, even if you are using little clamp heads here you will get an indentation on each ofyour edges so here and here, then the middle,
i don’t think you can see that at home,but this it is a little annoying, it is kind of, it is kind of thing you misses a new woodworkerand then you will see it when your project get stained. so what i recommend to do andjeff agrees you just make your boards a little oversize and then slice them down to or ripthem down to finish width and run him on the joint in that way you will get rid of thoseclamp marks, right jeffrey? js: makes sense. okay what we are going donow is we are going to use a stacked dado head to cut some dadoes. the reason we usesome dadoes is we are going to be attaching the shelf to the sides, the dado is reallythe best joint for that, it is very strong, vertically so you are not going to have worryabout your expensive components getting ruined.
what i have set up here is i have a sacrificialpiece of wood clamped to the fence and what that does is it, i have already determinedwhere i want the dado would cut and that is going to basically it is not going to getin the way as you want across once your miter gauge starts running across, it’s not goingto interfere and make it bind against the fence, sometimes that will actually make thewood kick back. so this is a nice little set up a gauge ofperfect of dimensions and it stays out of the way. we are also going to use the dadoto do some rabbits on the back, the back of the piece has a piece of hardboard on theback that basically keeps it from racking and one more thing i forgot to mention. whenyou are setting up your dado the blade has
to be the same thickness as the wood thatis going to be received in it. the way a dado blade works if you haven’tused one before it has got two blades on the sides then it uses these chippers. the chippersgo in between the blades and then on some dado sets they also have little washers thatallow you to adjust the thickness so it is perfectly the same width as the wood is. sonow that the dado has been set properly we are ready to start cutting. one of thingsi want to mention is i usually run the dado head a little bit out to the edge to takeoff a little bit extra and then we will trim with the chop sawyer after that. so afterwe have done cutting all the dados we are going to go and jim is actually going to showus how to make the kickboard and cut this
curve on it. jt: okay so i am going to talk a little bitabout setting up the kick plate and making the cutaways that we need for that so whatyou want to do first of all is select a clear piece of stock, the one i am holding has thisbig knot in the middle but the brilliance of the kick plate if you can see it on thefinished project over there this bottom portion gets cut right out. so i can get away withhaving this knot so what the finished piece will be what you want to do, is leave aboutan eighth of an inch excess on either edge and what we are going to do is we will trimroute that once this is mounted. then we will have a nice clean line that willlook real sharp and we are roughing out the
feet here. i don't know if you can see itat home, but we have got 2-1/4 inch marked feet here to match the 2-1/4 inch feet here.so it is basically pretty straightforward and the curve radius i use this is very convenientpiece of masking tape or masking tape roll - this fits right on here like so and thatgives me the curve i need. so i am going to go ahead and do the other step right now whichis route the top edge here - that kind of softens up the line where the door meets thekick plate. okay so now i am going to go ahead and cutout this portion with the knot and create my feet and i do that on the band saw prettystraightforward. i am actually going to do some relief cuts in here and then cut thecurve and the little pieces from the relief
cuts will pop up one at a time. so jeffrey,you mind cleaning this up on a spindle sander i have got the curve pretty roughed out justneeds a little sanding there buddy. js: yeah, let me do the sanding. jt: that is right. alright while jeffrey getsgoing on that i just want to explain very similar process for side we are going to usethis piece of scrap to simulate the side here. again we are using the masking tape as thecurve radius for the side. one thing i want to point out though as we were marking offour feet thicknesses here what we have done is this one in the front will be 3/4 of aninch narrower than the one in back. the reason being is we are going to put the kick plateon front of that and now everything is altogether
and set and done these two feet thicknesseswill be the same. so that is all i want to do mention about this. other than when youare doing these lines, make sure that you make the lines real dark so as you are sandingit away as jeffrey is about to do, you can see those lines so you don’t go over them. js: okay so we are going to do next, we basicallyhave all the blanks cut, basically all the pieces are going into this so what we aregoing to do is we are going to start sanding everything, a couple of things to think about,you want to label everything so you know where everything goes once it is all sanded. itis lot easier to sand before you assemble in lot of cases because this is the just theway sanders work. you can run right across
the edge and actually you are not going tohave problem with making scratches on another piece. so always sand everything at a time,start with, i usually start with like to a 120 grit depending on how rough the boardis, finish with a 150 grit if it is going to be stained and pollied and that is prettymuch all there is to do it. the only other thing you may want to talk about or thinkabout is attaching a dust collector while sanding because if you can keep your shopclean, keep all the dust off everything that is just going to save, you know save you lotof work down the road trying to clean up after every project. jt: okay just want to spend a minute or twoand talk about the staining part of the project.
i recommend when you stain the project usea foam brush, some people use a rag to apply the stain, i actually prefer the foam brushes- they’re a little cleaner. i would also recommend that you get some rubber glovesto do that and when you are staining because the stain really gets in your nails and itis hard to wash to away. so just a recommendation also before you use your stain make sure youshake it up really well so a lot of pigments that settle out of the stain and if you don’tshake it up really well before you use it, you won’t get as dark a color and whichis kind of frustrating and has happened to me a lot, if you are trying to match in otherpiece, the next piece that you make may be a little different even though it is the samecolor stain.
so let me just open this which i have alreadyshaken pretty well, and what i have got here, is just i want show how the stains obviouslywould change the color but really bringing up the grain pattern in the wood so we willstain one of these and just compare to the other. normally you would leave this on forfive to ten minutes, let that really soak into the wood, but for the purposes of thedemonstration we will just do it for a moment. one thing i want to point out to - the faceof the wood will stain at a certain level but the end grain just because of the physicalproperties of the wood will stain a lot quicker and stain a lot darker. so that is somethingto keep in mind if you are showing some engrain like we are on this project on the side.
so let me just wipe this down real quick,this is kind of a crash course and what stain can do. so you can see on the unstained piecehere, you can't really get a good look at the grain pattern, but you can really seethat kind of really pops out at you. so that is the good news it really enhances the lookof the wood, bad news is if you got any marks from sanding or scrape marks they are goingto pop right up on you when you apply the stain and by then it is almost too late toreally do anything about it. so jeffrey had done a demonstration on sanding. you reallywant to take, take your time of sanding and really sand away all the scrapes and sandingmarks from the heavier grip paper.
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