(guitar music) marc: okay, the firstthing i wanted to show you which is just really random. actually the first 2 things are gonna be really random. i'd saved just- i used those little plastic cups like the gladware things. i don't know if you can even-
you might able to seethe thing that's sort of the impression of the label, but sometimes i leavefinish in those containers and i never throw it awayand it just sits around and i thought it would be pretty cool if i saved these andjust use them as samples to show the difference between different types of poly and we know that standard arm-r-seal or seal-a-cellor minwax polyurethane
is pretty durable stuff. right? i mean that's what you wantto use on a kitchen table or a coffee table,something that's gonna have the hell beat out of it basically. so you expect it to bepretty durable, pretty hard, but then we talk aboutthings like spar varnish stuff that's meant forboating and outdoor exposure which tends to be really, really durable, but it's almost too softfor most indoor applications
and they say it's soft, you might use it on a project, but we put it in such a thin layer you don't really get perspective for just how soft it really is compared to regular polyurethane. so by keeping it in these big chunks and letting it cure you can kind of get an idea just by feeling it.
now this is kind of a tactile thing so i don't know how muchi could really show you that will give you an appreciation for it other than maybe hittingit with something, but this is the arm-r-seal, okay, that just solidified. okay, it's pretty hard. it's got a little bit of give to it. just a slight amount, butthat's pretty tough stuff.
this is epifanes the stuff that i used on the outdoor finish episode and it's noticeably soft. i can squeeze it with my fingers. and it really absorbs, you know, the pressure as i'm hitting it. so not that that's like ascientific test or anything, but it's sort of a realgood realistic example of just what the different properties
of these 2 finishes are so you could see why you might not want a finish that has this sort of spongy property to it on a certain piece of furniture, but there might besomething that goes outside where you would wantthat type of flexibility. because the piece is outside it's going to expand and contract a lotso you want to make sure that the finish expandsand contracts with it
otherwise the finishis going to split, okay so just kind of a neat little thing that i thought you guys might like to see. so here's the other thing. a lot of people ask when is glue- when does it go bad? and you could read thestuff on titebond's website. they tell you to lookfor a certain, you know, a little bit of chunkiness or stringiness,
but the thing is a lot of times, you know, hobbyists for instancedon't use a lot of glue so this stuff sticksaround for a long time and you got to know whenit's time to throw it out and the easiest way to know is- well if the glue doesn't actright that's when it's bad so i just wanted to show you. this is a gallon of titebond iii that i just didn't use within enough time
and i want to show youwhat bad glue looks like. you see how it's almost in 2 phases. it's pouring, but there's a big chunk that's about to plop out of there. now if you like ice-creamthis looks really good, but if you have a sickimagination like i do this looks really bad. okay, so it's really inconsistent. it's thick now barelycoming out of the bottle.
and it will be real chunky like this. okay, that is bad glue. another thing to lookfor is real stringiness, but the thing i see the most often is this sort of separation of phases where you'll see visible chunks inside of it. you'll see part of it that's real liquidy, but then another part that's a thick chunk and that's glue that should
not be used on a project anymore. i was gonna show the kapex tonight and i just wanna make sure that there is interest to see that. i'm not trying to do a commercial for festool in any way i just happen to be working on the video for them right now. the saw is out and i'd be more than happy to show you some of the features
and what i've learned in sort of doing a little bit of researchto compare it to other saws and what might make itdifferent and what might make it a good investment for someone, but not a good investmentfor another person. i'll just you a quick, honest review and show you some of the features. sound good? i'll just jump right into it.
the height itself is one of these really interesting features that festool came up with. because a lot of times if you look at the way the saw is setupif you cut something dead center here in themiddle of the blade- boy this is gonna be really tough. you only have the advantage of sort of the distance betweenthe blade and the arbor
and by the time you hitthe arbor you're done. you can't cut through the arbor obviously, but if you could manageto cut behind the blade you could take advantageof the extra height there and you could actually geta significantly taller piece under the blade which is kind of neat, but the problem is that'spretty difficult to do and it's kind of unsafeto try and do on your own. so they have this special lock that locks
the saw into position soit starts to work like a chop saw instead of like a slider because the sliding actionis what really causes the problem in most situations. back here is a little latch and this latch catches onthe body of the saw here and locks it in place. now see the head doesn't move any more. we can now fit a reallytall piece under here
and make the cut which is actually now behind the arbor and we can do it safely because it's not going to move so the action is much morelike a standard chop saw instead of like a slidingcompound miter saw. if you have a smallshop like many of us do and you go to put asliding compound miter saw in there the first thingyou're gonna notice is you're limited in whereyou can actually place
this thing because typically the rails protrude out the back so even though this is the back of the saw when you push the saw all the way in its sort of retracted positionthese bars stick out so if you try to putthis up against a wall you really need a gooddistance away from the wall for this to be actually installed there and especially if you go for a big unit
like a 12 inch you're gonna have some serious problems, but what they did with the design is they fixed the rails so that the rails actually don't move. the only thing that movesis the head on the rails so you could put this guyright up against the wall and slide the head back and forth so all the motion is forward
and you could have it on a pretty small, you know, pretty modest sized workbench right up against the wall and that comes in handy,too, if you are an installer and let's say you're working inside of someone's home andyou have a tight area. a lot of times you got togo outside to make a cut. you've got to, you know,go to a different room where you set up theequipment to make the cut.
with this one you don't have to do that. you could just put it on the floor in the middle of a, youknow, a 3 foot wide hallway and make all of your cuts right there where you need them so it's, you know, kind of a good convenience factor. let's talk about dust collection. now if you ask methere's a lot of features on this saw that i may never use
just because, you know, for straightforward fine woodworking i'm a little bit lessdemanding on a miter saw than some people might be, but the one thing that i think is worth its weight in gold on this system is the dust collection. you got this port back here and you just connectone of the ct vacs to it
and the real key to making this work is this spring-loadeddust shroud back here. i'll get if off so i could show it to you. okay, this sits behind the blade and it cups and sort of directs all of the airflow and the dustright into the vacuum. and unlike most other saws even the ones that have a little bit of, you know, dust collection tube in the back
they still usually don't work. this one actually does work. so i'll try and get a good shot and i'll cut some mdf which as you know is notorious for a crap load of dust and let's see if you canactually see it. ready. okay, so obviously i cut that a lot slower than i normally would have, but the point is there'sno dust at the back here.
it's all clean. it's a nice, clean cut and that shroud does an amazing job of collecting all the dust there. this is pretty sweet. it just goes into the t-track so that if you're doing crown moulding you could put it in a nested position. most of the time i'veseen people build jigs that do this or theyclamp a board down onto
the base of the table and that works okay. actually it works great, but it takes a little bit more time because you've got to set that up and these basically just hook right on and you could put one oneach side if you want to and it just really works pretty nice. this little guy right there. you put that in the downward position.
like this and that engages it. and what it does is itstops the depth of the head from going down so you could start to do trenching operations. you see how it's raising as i turn it. so if you're doinghalf-laps, if you're maybe putting a little grooveor a dado in a piece. it's really relativelyrough it's not something you're gonna make fine joinery with,
but it's not bad and it's something that most other saws don'thave even as an option so pretty slick. okay, so the gadget station that we're building is primarily jatoba. i wanted the doors to have some lighter colored wood, creamy colored wood, but something with some interest so i wanted to get aspalted maple for that.
the pegs that we're gonna be using to sort of peg the tenons are going- like in a [unintelligible]style are going to be ebony and well everything else is jatoba. i've been talking with a company called bell forest products andi believe their website is bellforestproducts.com.if i post this video i'll put a link up sothat you guys have it. they got in touch with me.
we started talking. ilooked at their website and i was pretty intriguedbecause they have it setup in such a waythat it's really helpful for someone who's going to do mail order. a lot of times these wood companies they put a website upand you can hardly tell that they have a web business, you know, you can order wood, but it'snot really user-friendly. you could tell that the primary business
which makes sense istheir local clientã¨le, but they just happen tosell some stuff online. so these guys have a site that's setup and it just seems like it's really geared toward hobby woodworkers so they have a lot of these, you know, 10-board feet, 20-board feet project packs and the prices are better than what i can get locally so then by the time
you add in shipping it'sactually not that different, but i might be able to get wood that i don't normally have access to and in some cases forfigured wood it's cheaper. add in the shipping and everything the total cost is actually cheaper than what i would pay if i drove to some of the places locallyand paid a premium price. so the whole point here-
i said, you know what, thisis a relatively small project maybe i could get it orderedin so that i could see what the quality of their materials are, how is it shipped andthe idea here is for me to experience this myself so that i can than say when- and we get at least once a month you know, 1 or 2 people asking "hey who do you recommendfor mail order wood?"
and i've never been ableto give a good solid recommendation from my experience so that's really what this is all about. i've got a big fat pieceof 8/4 jatoba here. the rest of this is 4/4, but it's still nice and thick so once it acclimates i'll have no problem planing it down and getting it to- i'll probably still beproud of 3/4 which is great
i never like to go all the way to 3/4. i try to stay as thick as possible. only remove as much material as i need to. before i get down to thebottom let me show you. they picked out someterrific spalted maple. look at this stuff. if somebody can get the link could you put the link up into the chat so that people can check it out.
okay, so really gorgeouspiece of spalted maple and, in fact, what i'mgonna do is probably cut these into veneer so i could savor every little morsel. okay, now this i'm gonnadismantle my rack here just so that i could show you because i was floored when i saw this. look at the width onthese pieces of jatoba. i don't even know that
my local places would have this, but this is 14-1/2 incheswide. all one board. that is awesome. so this stuff came in these cardboard- basically they probably have these sheets of cardboard and they customize for different sized boxes and it's really not that thick. i mean i was surprised at
how little packaging is actually in there, but when you think about it it's hardwood, you know, once it's wrapped in here and taped all around what's really gonna happen to it. i guess the only risk you might run is if some of it breaks through and you lose a smaller piece, but it arrived perfectly secure from ups.
it was in great shape. here'e their label if you're interested. okay, so i was pretty impressed all in all for my first- well they did send mesome other material before a smaller order sotechnically the second time that i've received an order from them, but for, you know, my firstand second experiences with mail order i'm really happy with it
and i would not hesitate in the future to do that again and the great thing is now i can give you guys a link and say "here, here's where i usually go "or here's where i recommend "because i've got experience with it." i also got this nice chunk of ebony which i forgot to show you. pretty sweet.
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