(funky jazz music) marc - well, well, well, it actually worked. i honestly wasn't sure it was going to, but i'm glad to see everythingwent pretty smoothly. just a little tip for you, if you're having troubleweaving these pieces in and out, feel free to go a littlebit thinner with those. this panel's pretty strongonce it's all together as this sort of woven panel creation here,
so if each one is a little bit thinner, to make it easier to weave in and out, i don't think that's too big of a deal. and, we need to disassemble all this because none of these pieces have really been finish-sanded, and we haven't sandedall these sharp corners. right now, this wouldbe a bit of a hazard, especially, i mean, i'vegot a kid in the house
who's going to want tostick his fingers in this, so i need to make sure all of these edges are sort of blunted, and rounded over. and i've got some chamfer details that i think i'm going to add that will make this piecelook a little bit cooler. alright, so, let's knock this thing apart, got a lot of work to do yet. i usually put roundovers on my projects,
but this piece is gettingchamfers just about everywhere. for the outside corner ofthe legs, i raised the bit, to create a more substantial chamfer. everywhere else, thechamfer is pretty subtle. even the vertical slats get a chamfer, being careful to stop short of the end, where the insert into the square mort is. for the top, i do a dry assembly, and mark my stop points,
since i actually don't wantto chamfer the mating edges. after the rounding isdone, reassemble the frame, and use a chisel tofinish out each corner. (gentle acoustic music) the thin strips will all besanded smooth on each face, and then i'll ease the edges. a couple passes with theblock plane breaks the edge, and a little bit of sandingwill smooth things out. there are a lot of slats to do,
and this will get tedious,but it's worth the effort. for additional air circulation,as well as visual appeal, i'll create two cut-outson the top-front rail using the bandsaw. the bandsaw leaves a rough surface, so i'll do some cleanup at the workbench using a chisel and a file. one more loose end involves the plywood panels for our top.
unfortunately, the backside is kinda ugly, and we'll be able to see it every time we open the hamper. so i decided to dye it. i'll, first, raise thegrain, using some water. once dry, i sand back the resulting fuzz. i then give it a coat of general finishes mediumbrown water-based dye. this is a pretty goodapproximation for walnut.
i'll set those panels aside for now, and move on to the final assembly. so here we go. the strategy here is to assemble the side, while gluing only one leg onto the rails. the other leg is there just to keep things alignedwhile the glue sets. the second leg is then removed, for the weaving process.
the sides are actuallymuch easier to weave, since there's only twovertical partitions. and by the way, if youneed to make adjustments after the strips are already installed, use a small scrap block, to help prevent doingany damage to the edges. using the cauls, the stripsare brought into alignment, and the second leg is added on, this time with glue on themortise and tenon joints.
another round of clamping,until the glue dries, and the side panel is ready to roll. with both side panels assembled, we can work on the front. once again, we'll do thispartial glue-up strategy, only this time, we'regluing the front rails to one of the assembled sides. everything else is dry for now. the back rails, and the other side,
are only being added so that the structure stays nice and square during the glue-up. once the joints are dry, the side and back rails are removed, leaving only the glued sections. now we can begin the weaving. the only real snag i hit came when i added the second side panel. because we'll have the bottom panel
in the way during the glue-up, i can't use the same clamping setup that i used previously. (record scratch) bummer. so the only clamping pressure i can apply will come from the top. thankfully, i've got somefairly deep-throated clamps. that certainly helps, butthere's not enough pressure
toward the bottom. so i decided to throw a "hail mary," by applying some caglue between each slat. when i remove the lower clamps, there's a good chance the glue won't hold. but it only has to holdfor a couple of minutes, until i get the assembly together. so far, so good. i start with the bottom panel.
and feel free to add glue tothe grooves if you want to. next up is the bottom rail. and now for the back panel. and then, the top rail. finally, the other assembled side. my strategy was to get allof the tenons inserted, as well as the panels, or at least as far as they could go, without the front weavein its groove just yet.
thankfully, the ca gluetrick worked well enough for me to slide thestrips into the grooves, starting at the clamped side, and then working my way down from there. and after breathing a huge sigh of relief, i add the clamps. no rest for the weary, though, since the hamper topneeds to be assembled. but this is a cakewalkcompared to what we just did.
don't forget to use the cauls, to help prevent denting your project. now we can add the center divider. we need to notch thebottom of the dovetail, to make room for that back panel. a quick cut at thebandsaw will do the trick. after the glue dries, i use a plane, to make everything nice and flush. now for the finishing touches.
the top of each leg still needs chamfers, so i get them started with a sharp chisel. i can then refine thechamfers, with a sanding block. now let's bring the lidover, and see where we're at. well, that was one ofthe trickier assemblies i've done in a while, and thankfully, nothing broke, it's stillwhole, and looks pretty good. now, you might be wondering why i didn't pre-finish anything here,
we've got an inside that's going to be a little bit tricky to get to, we certainly have these woven panels, that are a little tricky to finish, so you might think you couldpre-finish all of these slats. now, you certainly can. i didn't, because i'ma little bit concerned about new finish and itstendency to get tacky and stick to other pieceswith new finish on it.
so i may end up in a situation, trying to weave these things through, where there's alreadyfriction to begin with, getting even more frictionfrom the new finish sticking to itself. so i decided to foregothe pre-finishing process, but it's something to explore,if you want to try it. the finish i'm going to use, i'll probably just doa coat of danish oil,
and then maybe do a lacquer, and i'll explain all thatwhen we get to the finishing. so i've got a plan in mind. but at this point, weneed to turn our attention to attaching our lid, andi've got some special hinges in mind for it, that'llhelp me keep it up, and i won't need to have anyof those special latches, because the hinges do all the work. these are rockler's torsion hinges,
and these things are fantastic, but they're not cheap, about $55 a pair. they're great for things liketoy boxes, blanket chests, because they keep the lid open. and it's got this built-in resistance to the lid fallingdown, so you really have to actually push the lid down, to get it to go into position. fantastic as a safety featureand perfect for a hamper.
now, installing them,i'm just going to follow the manufacturer's instructions, by locating and installingone leaf onto the lid, and then dropping the lid in place, and letting the bracketsettle down on the back rail, and attaching it with screws. once attached, we can see how the corners of the lidlook a little bit awkward, due to the large chamfer in the legs.
so, let's dog-ear those corners. i do this fairly quickly,using a flat file. don't forget to addthose chamfers back in. so my finish of choice, for the hamper, is going to be teak oil. now this is actually very similar to the watco danish oil formulation, but it's got some uv inhibitors in it. i'm only using it because idon't want it to go to waste,
it's been in the shop for awhile, and i need to use it up. but it's very similar to danish oil, basically a oil-varnish blendwith a little bit of thinner, to make it easier to apply. i'll apply it with a brush, and this is going to allow me to get it in all those little nooks and crannies, and the cool thing about this material is that it really does seepinto the wood grain really well.
so i'm not too worried aboutexposing unfinished areas, because it's going to seep down in, behind all of those weave patterns, and it should be just fine. anywhere from two to four coats is going to give me a verynatural-looking finish, with some protection. now i did say earlier,that i might use lacquer, not going to use lacquer on the project.
i talked to the boss, she wants a more naturallook for this thing, so i think the danish oil,or in this case, teak oil, is going to be the wayto go, let's hit it. as always, i pour the finishinto a secondary container. this prevents contamination and promotes the longevityof the finish in the can. application is super simple. i use an inexpensive chip brush
to liberally apply the finish. i start in the insidefor strategic reasons. any finish that dripsthrough will be cleaned up when applying the finish to the outside, and that's the surfacethat really matters. once the interior is coated, i use a clean cotton ragto wipe away the excess. most of the finish isabsorbed by the wood, so there shouldn't be too muchstanding oil on the surface.
this is a good time to coat the bottom, and the back panel, if you're so inclined. on the outside, you can clearly see where the finish seeped through. brushing on a moderate coat of finish will blend these areas in perfectly. at this point, i reallystarted to get excited, as the walnut just came to life. the natural color variations,
along with the shadows and highlights created by the woven pattern, make for a very compelling panel. as with the inside, we finishit off with a wipe-down. the back panel receives equal treatment, as does our lid. the next day, i apply a second coat, using the exact same methodology. so now we have two more things
we need to add to our hamper. number one, we've gotto put on the casters, and that should be pretty easy, just space them out ina way that looks good toward the corners, andattach them with screws. and the second thing is the bags. now you could just throw your clothes right into the hamper as is, but i think it's going towork out a whole lot better
if the clothes never really have to touch the inside of that weave pattern. you can keep it in a niceconfined area using a bag. so, i just went on amazon, picked up a bag that wasroughly the size i wanted. this one has a little drawstring in it, so we can tighten it up if we need to. but what i want to do is secure it to the inside of the case.
and i'm going to use snaps to do it. and this way, it'ssemi-permanently attached, and if i ever need to takethe bag out, i can do that. i envision, most of the time, we'll just keep them in therewith the snaps in place. right, so i've got twoof them, ready to roll, we just need to apply somesnaps to this material, and then put the other side, the male side of the snap, into the box.
i start by measuring andmarking the snap locations where i think they make sense. two in the back, two in thefront, and one on each side. i pre-drill each snap location, and then drive the snap studs into place. i found that these were cheaply made and strip very easily, so be careful. now i can grab the bag, and use a sharpie to markthe desired locations
for the snaps in the bag itself. i'll do the front and back first, since the bag has a nice seam, that i can use for a center reference. i'm using a shorelinemarine canvas fastener kit to do the work, it's pretty simple to use, but first, i'll use an awl, to poke a starter hole in the bag. i then insert one ofthe snap backer pieces,
and push it through thehole from the inside. then i can install the actualfemale section of the snap into the crimping tool. the backer piece rests onthis white plastic cradle, and after a quick squeeze,the snap is installed. it's pretty easy. now with the front and back intalled, i can locate and install the side snaps. just like that, the bags areinstalled and ready to go.
well here we are! a couple of coats of danish oil, the surface is nice and smooth, because oil-based finishes don't necessarily raise the grain, so we don't have a whole lot of that in-between-coats sanding. you could if you wanted to, but i just don't reallythink it's necessary
with this slat design. pretty happy with theoverall appearance of it, the function of it is going to be great, and i think nicole is going to be thrilled to use this in the bathroom. so, fun project, it's great to experiment, try things you've never done before, i highly recommend it. it doesn't always workout, but, you know what?
the payoff is usually there, and if it doesn't workout, you can try it again, and do something different next time. alright, thanks for watching.
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